Hogenakkal Falls

Hogenakkal Falls

Also known as the Niagara of India, the Hogenakkal Falls are not a single waterfalls but a series of falls. The whole spectacle is spread over a kilometre or so. A trip to Hogenakkal is usually a combination of boating, bathing/swimming, and massage.

I had read about Hogenakkal waterfalls long back as the Smoky Rocks. Ever since, it has been on my must-see list. And finally I could make up my trip to this wonderland with my friend, Rohit who is equally excited about the same.

We decided to take Karnataka tourism's conducted tour and woke up quite early in the morning to reach Badami House near Corporation. However, to our despair, we found out that Tourism Dept doesn’t conduct that tour as they can't make profit out of it!! Wonder why they have still kept it in their brochure!

However, Tourism Dept still couldn't dump our enthusiasm. We went to Majestic Bus Stand to find out local commute and finally got into a Tamil Nadu State Transport bus heading towards Dharmapuri, nearest town to the falls.

We didn't get time to have our breakfast, so on the way we kept munching on the snacks that we had packed for the journey. The road was indeed nice and we had a bump less ride. Also managed a small nap. It took about 2.5 hrs to reach Dharmapuri.

From there we boarded into a crowded bus that took us to Hogenakkal. It was around an hour’s journey. The bad thing was we didn’t manage to get seat, so had to stand all throughout the journey. But the road was nice and we didn’t had any trouble, thinking of the waterfalls that we were going to reach soon.

When we reached Hogenakkal, it was lunch time and we were hungry. We spotted a clean restaurant and ordered for meals (Rs 25/- per head for unlimited food on banana leaf)

When we came out of the restaurant, it was raining outside. But in no time we were spotted by a boatman (Coracle driver) who started nagging and finally we gave up to his demands (Rs. 400 for the full boat for two hours). To reach the waterfalls one needs to take a boat-ride (there is no land access).

We finally boarded the boat. Its called coracle ('Parisal' in local language). Perfectly circular in shape, coracle is made (woven together) of bamboo shoots/sticks. The base is some kind of cloth or hide, topped by ...actually bottomed by :) Tar (I think!). I am told Parisal is a totally-Indian, indigenous product, whose shape and features have not changed over hundreds of years! Wish I could have filed for a geographical indication before any western guy copies the same and patents it. (Intellectual Property of India after all!)

Enough about the coracle. Back to the trip discussion. Once in boat, we had to pay 10/- Rs. per person to the government guy sitting at the base of the big tree (banyan, I think) as the tax/fee to cross the river.

Anyhow, we crossed the river's width and got off the boat. There are small pathways to walk and river Cauvery seems to be all around you. And finally, we could hear the roar of the waterfalls and see the first one's head.

The whole spectacle is spread over a kilometre or so, with two sections, half-a-kilometre each, making maybe 110 degree angle to one another. The majority of waterfalls are on the first section and the second section is a gorge which forms the downstream of all the waterfalls. Apart from being one of the loveliest waterfalls of the country, it is also known for therapeutic properties of its waters. However, we decided not to get wet/take bath in the water as we were scared to get wet and fall ill.

The waterfalls were so much filled with mist. Standing near it, you get little droplets of water atomized by the falls on your hair and clothes. There is a Viewpoint Tower from where you can see the whole topography.

After some photo sessions, we moved to the stairs leading to the next phase of boating. At the bottom of the stairs, it was a corner cut out of the main flow. We got onto our coracle, and then began our ride into the heavy flow of the falls downstream. Once out of the corner from where be boarded the boat, and in the main river, the view was something which I can not describe really. On one side was the gushing, roaring waterfalls, and on the other side, there was relatively calm water flow.

We were not so keen to get wet at first.. but once the boat guy took us into the falls.. we couldn’t resist.. and shouted “once more.. once more...” By the time we realised that we are getting wet, we were fully drenched in water.. including our shoes, bags, money bags.. and ALAS! my camera!!!! it was all in water.. With all our wet cloths on, we headed towards the downstream.

We were actually in a gorge with famed Karnataka-granite rising high (15-20 meters) on both the sides. It reminded me of Bedaghat (marble rock formations) in Madhya Pradesh. The only difference being that at Bedaghat, its marble stones and not granite. And also, in Bedaghat, moonlight boating is pretty famous, but at Hogenakkal, I don’t think it would be fun in the night.

The different granite rocks had different looks to them. Some were white, others rather blackish ...and the depth of water maybe 50-60 deep, and we in between the water and rock, admiring them. My literary skill (or rather the abysmal lack of it!) miserably fails me to properly describe the beauty of the place.

After sometime, the river got much wider. Little ahead was an island dividing the river into two. On the right side of the river was a mud staircase leading to a small shop, sitting pretty on the way to the top. This is essentially the Karnataka side of Hogenakkal. The river Cauvery at Hogenakkal is the borderline between Karnataka and TamilNadu.

We went up to the island which is the last point after which the boat would return back. We stopped there to take bath. We were already wet anyway.. so didn’t mind to take bath...

We munched on a few of the snacks we had and we headed back upstream. The rest of the snacks were finished by our boatman who seemed to like them a lot.

On one of the high-rising rocks, we saw a small figure at the top waving to us. It turned out to be a guy in his half pants waiting to dive into the water. It was indeed a spectacle to see the dive.

Reaching the start point we paid off the boatman, but he kept asking for more. Rohit being very generous gave him 100 rupees more to bring back smile in his face...

We had to change out wet cloths, so we headed towards one of the small stores to buy few cloths. It was 4:30pm already; we rushed towards the bus-stand. Once here, the bus was almost ready to leave. Got onto it, managed seats too and reached Dharmapuri by 6pm. Soon we got a bus back to Bangalore. Heading towards our homes, we promised to comeback to the place again (this time with adequate preparations.. like, extra cloths and floaters). Finally for those who have not yet dared to venture here, trust me, you would be enchanted and enthralled.

The tour pics can be seen at this link: http://picasaweb.google.co.in/genius.gene/HogenakkalFalls

Account Book:

Route: Bangalore - (Hosur) - Dharmapuri - Hogenakkal (190 kms from Tamilnadu route)

Bus: Bangalore - Dharmapuri (150 kms, 90.00/- Rs.)

Bus: Dharmapuri - Hogenakkal (47 Kms, 15/- Rs.)

Government fee to cross river Cauvery: Rs 10.00/-

Asking price for full Boat ride (includes time for bathing): 500 Rs. Negotiable.

Massage: 50/- Rs. for semi-massage, full massage costs more

A Weekend Gateway

Ramohalli Banyan Tree

There are plentiful places to visit in and around Bangalore. However, for professionals like us, there’s so less of time. I always wish for an extended weekend. "Less work and more play makes Jack an active sac". Regretfully, there is so little time and so much to see.

I was googling for a weekend getaway not far from the City… and then I spotted the famous big banyan tree at Ramohalli. It is a stone’s throw away from Bangalore, which could be the ideal spot to unwind, away from the City’s hustle and bustle.

Another lazy Sunday was around the corner and no scheduled shoots to follow… Hence, we clicked the idea to head towards the big banyan tree...

We, four friends, Rohit, Royan, Jagan and myself started off from Bangalore at around 9 am. A mere 28 kms South-East of Bangalore, we reached the spot from Kumbalgod on Mysore Road. As we came near the place, the wide canopy of the tree comes into view.

This serene picnic spot has a sprawling 400-year-old Banyan Tree (Ficus Benghalensis), which spreads over a large area! It is called 'Dodda Alada Mara' in Kannada meaning Big Banyan Tree. The tree with its vertical root system is said to be the biggest tree in Karnataka.

A little of the statistics…after the world’s biggest banyan tree at Thimmamma Marimanu near Gooty in Andhra Pradesh, the banyan tree at Botanical Gardens of Kolkata and Adyar tree at Chennai, this is the fourth largest banyan tree in India. As is typical to this species, the main tree has over the years spread out widely with several aerial roots or prop roots.

The main trunk has given life to several roots and branches with lots of leaves. Branches jutting on all sides have slanted towards the ground. The rustic settings and an enchanting view of the nearby Savandurga hills makes this an ideal picnic spot. The Banyan Tree restaurant run by the Tourism department caters to the needs of visitors.

The entire tree is fenced and one can walk alongside the labyrinth of roots, which create a cool, shady environment. It is believed that the tree is symbolic of the trinity with the roots representing Brahma, the stems and the bark representing Vishnu and the branches symbolising Maheshwara. There is also a Shiva temple in the enclosure.

It also happens to be a familiar setting for many a romantic movie sequence. Also, you would remember the famous song sequence of "Sholey".. yeh dosti hum nahin chhorenge.. yes it is the same tree.

Nearby to the tree is the largest Snake temple of Karnataka, called the Naga temple. It is about 3 kms from the Big Banyan tree while returning towards Mysore Road. The temple hosts a large statue of Nag.

There are times when you follow instincts and come upon places that simply take the breath away.

However, it’s always a good idea to pre plan the trip to the place you wish to visit to make it an unforgettable outing. Here are few travel tips that might help you the next time you visit the place:

How to reach: Drive on Mysore Road beyond Kengeri, take a deviation to the right at Kumbalagod junction and proceed for seven kms. If approaching from Magadi Road, turn left at a spot with a clear indication between Tavarekere and Chennenahalli, and continue for about six kms. Many buses reach the place from Bangalore City.

You may choose to visit the Naga Temple 3 Kms from the Big banyan tree towards Mysore Road. (you have to take a left diversion well marked by arrow on a yellow board)

Nearby is the picturesque Manchanabele reservoir surrounded by hills which can also be visited on the way to Magadi Road. Around 30 kms from Bangalore, just before the Tippagondanahalli reservoir, on the Bangalore-Magadi main road, if you are sharp-eyed, take the left turn at the signpost (painted in pale yellow) towards Manchinbele dam and subsequently Mysore road.

Refreshments: Available; There are a few shops, hotels including Hotel Mayura belonging to the KSTDC that come to view as one drives into the place.

Suggestion: Watch out for monkeys and take care to leave the place clean

Insectomania

Personally, I have nothing against insects as long as they eat their partners after mating or do whatever that insects are supposed to do among themselves. However, when they decide to invade my privacy, I don’t hesitate to put my foot over them despite the "scrunch" sound it makes when I do that.

It often amazes me seeing people doing PhD studies on the sex life of cicadas. It baffles me even more that Cicadas actually have a sex life especially looking at how ugly they appear and whose idea of attracting a female is rubbing their antennae together to make weird noises that, in dark houses are almost certain to make the human occupants wet their pants. In spite of it, of course, people spend years studying insects. It must be like one of those compulsive disorders where people laugh loud at all jokes, which are narrated by their superiors even though the jokes themselves are so stale that they attract flies.

If this is the case with men, can you imagine what must be it with ladies? Most ladies whom I know are gentle creatures till the point they see anything that is on six feet (this includes mating dogs too). At this point they grab hold of any strong object nearby like their husband’s or boyfriend’s hand and display the same composure what Dalai Lama displays whenever he sits atop a 20000 volts chair.

I don't think it's expected to be anytime soon that we are going to see the end of insects. In fact, Scientists say that cockroaches can survive even a nuclear explosion. We just have to learn to live with them.